STEPPING INTO YOUR NEW STYLE

In our last issue, American Crew All Star Educator and Creative Director of Attitude Mens Hair, Ian Harrold gave you, the reader, an insight into what styles we will be walking out of  the barber shop with in 2017 – lived-in and untidy. A response to the precision blend and undercuts of 2016.

During a conversation with Ian, while sat in his chair getting my Christmas cut, the All Star Educator mentioned the term “next step” as we discussed the hairstyle of 2017. If you are anything like me, the day…no, no the second your hair reaches that awkward length is the second you decide to revert to your usual cut. Patience is not an attribute of mine when it comes to growing my hair to change the style. So as Ian introduced me to the idea of “steps”, then the idea of changing my style from the on trend (possibly over done?) undercut, seemed a little more achievable.

Below you will find four steps for three cuts – taking you from the undercut to your new desired style. Short – “The Redmayne”: Inspired by the handsome red haired English actor, Eddie Redmayne. Medium – “The Sherlock”: Taken from Downey Jr.’s 2009 Sherlock. Long – “The Rouge One”: or “The Diego Luna” if you prefer, the Mexican male lead from the most recent Star Wars blockbuster…


THE REDMAYNE

“To go from your undercut is the hardest part of this haircut and where the time will be taken is in the sides. When you look at this style against an undercut, the top just needsto be shorter, depending on how fast you feel your hair grows.”

HAIRCUT ONE

“This is a clean up. Just outlining the sides and shaving your neck. This maintains your undercut and starts to let the sides grow.

HAIRCUT TWO

“This is the same process as Haircut One but you will need to trim off the length on top. Now your undercut will still work but is moving away from its extremeness.”

HAIRCUT THREE

“The back and sides will now be at a length were they are thick and look like they need to be cut. So you need the hair to be cut razor over comb instead of clippers. The razor will start to separate the hair and show more texture. The outline of your haircut also needs to move into a more natural finish as a pose to a clean line with a strong taper on the nape. Again if your barber can, then the hair line should be lightly tapered and broken up with a hair razor. With this haircut we want to work more on blending the less extreme side and the back of the head into the sides to start removing the undercut feel.”

HAIRCUT FOUR

“The back and sides need to be primarily cut with a hair razor but then point cut over comb with a deep intention and variable direction to give a strong sense of separation. The hair line also needs to be cut with a hair razor to move away from clean lines and also move to a natural finish. The top should now be cut to length with a hair razor and detailed with support slide cutting with scissors. Finish with American Crew Heavy Hold Pomade applied to damp hair at the roots, then blow dry with hand stretching hair from the roots to ends. The product will enhance the texture of the look.”


THE SHERLOCK

“To go from your undercut is the hardest part, once again, of this haircut and where the time will be taken is in the sides. Haircut one, two and three are the same as The Redmayne, it’s haircut four where you see it take shape.”

HAIRCUT ONE

“This is a clean up just out lining the sides and shaving your neck. This maintains your undercut and starts to let the sides grow.”

HAIRCUT TWO

“This is the same process as Haircut One but you will need to trim off the length on top. Now your undercut will still work but is moving away from its extremeness.”

HAIRCUT THREE

“The back and sides will now be at a length were they are thick and look like they need to be cut. So you need the hair to be cut razor over comb instead of clippers. The razor will start to separate the hair and show more texture. The outline of your haircut also needs to move into a more natural finish as a pose to a clean line with a strong taper on the nape. Again if your barber can, then the hair line should be lightly tapered and broken up with a hair razor. With this haircut we want to work more on blending the less extreme side and the back of the head into the sides to start removing the undercut feel.”

HAIRCUT FOUR

“The back and sides need to be primarily cut with a hair razor directing the hair back and up off the face. As it’s cut, the razor will add directional movement and texture to support the hair to sit off the face. The hair line also needs to be cut with a hair razor to move away from clean lines. The top is also razor cut for added separation. Blow dry with your hand lifting from the roots to ends, pushing hair up and back then style with American Crew Boost Powder at the roots and finish with American Crew Heavy Hold Pomade to add texture to the look.”


THE ROGUE ONE

“You are in for a long ride with The Rouge One and are danger of getting fed up along the way. The first three haircuts are about keeping it tidy and styling it right. It will be worth it.”

HAIRCUT ONE, TWO & THREE

“These cuts are just about the clean up. You are looking at a long haul so just keeping your neck clean and your hair lined out and tidy will hopefully appease the need for a full haircut.”

HAIRCUT FOUR

“At this point the top of your head will now need to be cut to manage it and start to give the haircut balance. Ask your barber how long it will take to grow the sides out – if your hair starts at a length of a number one you are looking at ten to twelve months. Out of all the looks this is the one by the time you get to the length you want your fed up and cut it off!! So as it grows, it is important that you get good styling lessons from your barber and tips on product choices. Don’t be afraid to ask questions along the way when you are in the chair.”


words by Ian Harrold & Thomas Sumner