Paul Smith continues a career of innovation with this daring Autumn/Winter Collection

We rundown the range featuring feather print embroidery, circle-centric patterns, Teddy Boy tailoring and trans-seasonal travel suits.

Feathers

Feathers are a focus for Paul Smith this season as a colourful new print features throughout the men’s and women’s collections

Inspired by British gentleman naturalists and collectors, the new autumn/winter ’17 motif builds on Paul Smith’s reputation as an innovator in print design. As well as appearing as a bold graphic, the feather is symbol for the season, appearing in a wide range of forms and applications.

For men, the vibrant feather graphic is printed onto nylon bomber jackets, shirts and pocket squares. It also features as a subtle accent on jacket linings and pocket linings. Single feathers are also embroidered onto key outerwear and tailoring styles, Western shirts and the signature Basso trainer.

For women, all-over print feather shirts are styled under classic overcoats with feather

embroidery. Feathers also appear printed onto purses and other small leather goods. Finally, delicate feathers attached to the bond of women’s hats give the feather a three-dimensional form.

Paul Smith’s in-house print design team created the new motif after being inspired by Victorian-era naturalists, who carefully documented their findings in drawings and taxidermy collections.

No.9

A new collection of embossed leather goods inspired by the award-winning façade of London’s flagship Paul Smith shop, No. 9 Albemarle Street

No. 9 Albemarle Street’s patterned façade reinterprets the design language of the 18th Century Georgian townhouse beneath. The repeating elliptical motif of interlocking circles, rendered in cast iron, nods to ornamental Regency forms, creating a delicate, modernist pattern from a subversively heavyweight material.

The cast iron frontage firmly locates No. 9 Albemarle Street within its Mayfair surroundings, mirroring the area’s characteristic street furniture of iron railings, grates, balconies and lamp posts. For the new leather goods collection embossed leather replaces cast iron. The traditional craft of leather production and embossing results in leather accessories that capture the same uniquely British amalgam of heavy industry and handcrafted construction.

British tailoring

The history and tradition of British tailoring is celebrated this season as Paul Smith shines a spotlight on classic tailoring with a signature twist

Great tailoring has always been at the heart of Paul Smith, but this season clever design references and fabric selection put the focus on the British tailoring tradition. In addition to the existing men’s tailoring offer, two new jacket shapes have been added this season. The first is a long, 82cm length jacket that references British Teddy Boy styling of the 1950s. This is complimented by another new shape with a square, strong shoulder line balanced by wider lapels.

Women’s tailoring introduces a refined, feminine take on what is traditionally a masculine archetype. While men’s and women’s styles share the same cloth, women’s designs have been engineered to fit the female form.

For outerwear, the best selling Epsom coat has been developed with a slightly slimmer shoulder, while the addition of ticket pockets and turnback cuffs is another reference to Teddy Boy tailoring.

The UK focus is strengthened with the fabric selection, where tactile tailoring cloths, including innately British patterns such as Prince of Wales check and Blackwatch tartan, all recall classic British tailoring. These authentic fabrics have been sourced from famed fabric mills such as Hardy Minnis and Lovat.

To ensure that tradition is balanced by modernity, detachable jacket liners add a technical edge to classic overcoats and the easy way of mixing sportswear with tailoring, as pioneered by Ray Petri’s Buffalo movement, is a recurring influence.

A suit to travel in

Paul Smith continues to lead the way in travel tailoring as A SuitTo Travel In returns in a series of new colours and fabric options for autumn/winter ’17

Further building on its travel tailoring credentials, Paul Smith has developed two weights of A Suit To Travel In fabric with different climates in mind. The original 100% wool suit remains at the core of the collection, while a new 84% wool, 16% mohair fabric blend has been added as a lighter option for warm and humid climates.

Both fabric options have the same high-twist construction and amazing crease recovery that A Suit To Travel In is famed for. Scrunch the suit in your hand and watch as it springs back, with the creases falling away before they’re allowed to form.

Mirroring Paul Smith’s focus on British fabrics for autumn/winter ‘17, A Suit To Travel In is also available in a classic houndstooth cloth that recalls traditional British tailoring. Plus, a series of muted trans-seasonal colours including pale blue, teal, lilac, damson and orange sit alongside the traditional colour options of navy, black and grey.

The British company is also expanding its travel range beyond tailoring. The wider Paul Smith Travel collection includes A Coat To Travel In, formal shoes with lightweight travel soles, a women’s Travel Dress and a new collection of compression socks named A Sock To Travel In, which launched in July 2017.