In Defence of the Nineties: The Cuban Collar Shirt
Setting the record straight on the ever-divisive subject of 90s style
The Cuban Collar Shirt, or Camp Collar shirt, refers to a short-sleeve, vacation-friendly little number that sits boxier and buttons lower to the chest than your average shirt. It sports a wider, almost lapel-like neckline and has been worn to great effect over the years by menswear style icons like Elvis Presley and Gregory Peck. And why not? The Cuban Collar shirt is an easy, breezy, cool, and classic answer to summer shirting, one that manages to maintain a measure of sartorial sophistication despite its more relaxed look.
Unless, of course, you choose to wear it like the ever-angsty and oh-so-nihilistic Tyler Durden of David Fincher’s 1999 cult classic, Fight Club. The celluloid poster boy for hipster cynicism, Tyler Durden is a mean-mouthed and quick-fisted little critique of toxic hypermasculinity who, unfortunately (and ironically) went on to raise a whole new generation of, well, the toxically hypermasculine.
Nevertheless, there’s a lesson to be learned here – if not in terms of social or sexual politics then at least in terms of style. Taking garishness to almost arthouse levels, Tyler Durden sports a couple of loud-and-proud Cuban collar shirts during his famous and pugilistically-charged pontifications. They usually find themselves in the company of a pair of red-tinted Aviators, too; and perhaps even in the close proximity of a loose-fit jean or flared, corduroy trouser. The collars of these shirts are invariably popped over an equally audacious, shirt-collared, rust-red leather jacket.
It’s true that Tyler’s attire – making its debut at the arse end of the millennium – doesn’t quite fall under the category of the quintessential 90s wardrobe. But it certainly packed enough of a punch at the time that menswear enthusiasts the world over spent the next ten years scouring thrift stores and bugging interweb bootleggers in search of similarly statement-making shirts.
And there you have it: an unlikely lesson in summer shirting options from everyone’s favourite hell raising, soapmaking, lawbreaking imaginary friend. Whoops, hope that didn’t spoil anything for you.
